Jenn Howe

🇮🇸 As promised, here is my third blog about Iceland, and I’m gonna wrap it up by showing you some of my favorite spots in the capital city of Reykjavík. 🇮🇸

👉🏼Fun fact: Reykjavík is the northernmost capital in the entire world, with a latitude just under the Arctic Circle at 64°08’N. 🌏🌬

Here are just a few of the notable things this Nordic town has to offer…

Hallgrímskirkja

Majestic Hallgrímskirkja rises 244 feet above the streets of Reykjavík, and yes, it is a church (kirkja being the Icelandic word for “church”). It was named after the Icelandic minister and poet Hallgrímur Pétursson, known for his poetry “Hymns of the Passion”, composed between 1656 and 1659.

The statue out front is a likeness of explorer Leif Erikson (c.970 – c.1020), and it was created by Alexander Stirling Calder. It was a gift from the United States in honor of the 1930 Althing Millennial Festival, commemorating the 1000th anniversary of Iceland’s parliament at Þingvellir in 930 AD.

👉🏼Fun fact: Erikson, who was from Iceland, was the first known European to have set foot on continental North America. Yes, way before Columbus. 🗺 But of course, neither of them “discovered” America, because DAMN, there were people already living there.

The inside of the church is minimalist and modern, striking and beautiful — in other words, very Scandinavian.

Much like Church of Our Savior in Copenhagen, Hallgrímskirkja also serves as an observation tower. Ride an elevator all the way to the top to enjoy fantastic views of Reykjavík in every direction:

Sólfar

This famous sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason can be found on the waterfront right across from Mount Esja.

👉🏼Fun fact: Sólfar means “Sun Voyager”, and this steel work of art is meant to serve as an ode to the sun in the form of a Viking dream boat. 🌞

Harpa

Harpa is the astounding new opera house and conference center located on the waterfront in Reykjavík. The first concert was held in the shimmering building on May 4, 2011. This structure features a distinctive colored glass facade inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland. Designed by Ólafur Elíasson/Henning Larsen Architects.

👉🏼Fun fact: the windows catch the light and ripple different beautiful colors, mimicking the Northern Lights. ✨

Tjörnin Pond

The area around Tjörnin Pond is peaceful and lovely to look at, no matter the time of day or year. This was the very first thing I saw in Reykjavík, because my shuttle from the airport dropped me off right at this spot, which is next to Reykjavík City Hall and the town center. This natural pond is surrounded by colorful historic buildings and serves as a great place to walk, relax, and take photos — especially at sunset.

Though it is technically a lake, this body of water is referred to as a “pond” due to its extremely shallow depth.  The name Tjörnin is derived from the Old Norse “tjörn”, an ancestor of the Northern English word “tarn”, which means “mountain lake”.

👉🏼Fun fact: The many ducks, swans, and geese that swim here can stay year-round due to geothermal heating.

Icelandic Punk Museum

If you see this gated area on Bankastræti, head down the stairs and below the street to visit the museum/exhibit dedicated to the history of Icelandic Punk Rock music — from its beginnings in the 1970’s to the breakup of The Sugar Cubes in the 1990’s. You can try on cool jackets, play instruments, and view quite an interesting display of items…but I think my favorite part was the dude with a big green mohawk who sat at the entrance playing bad-ass riffs on a bass guitar. Very rad place.

👉🏼Fun fact: the museum is located in what used to be the city’s underground toilet. 🚽 Also, when they first opened the place, Johnny Rotten of the Sex Pistols was on hand to kick off the festivities. 🤘🏼

The Old Harbour

Built between 1913 and 1917, the harbor now known as “Old Harbour” is doing more business than ever. You’ll probably need the guide/map (above), because there’s a lot going on. Old Harbour offers gorgeous views, a flea market, various marine tours, quaint cafes, maritime museums, unique cuisine, and excellent art shops. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon (or several).

👉🏼Fun fact: Björk doesn’t spend all of her time in Iceland these days, but she DOES still have a home next to Old Harbour. Her friends keep the address secret for fear of deranged fans, since she has had several dedicated stalkers.😐

Baktus The Cat

Yes. A cat.

When I met this feline, I had to pet him and talk to him and take his photo…all the usual things I do when I meet ANY cat. Duh. Of course. 💁🏻‍♀️

I first saw him inside one of the Reykjavík stores while I was window shopping. The next day, I spotted him inside ANOTHER store as I was searching for a new scarf. I ran into him several times that week, and he was always in a shop window, or walking up and down the aisles of touristy products in one establishment or another. I thought it was cool how he seemed to have the key to the city, the way he was allowed and accepted everywhere.

Fast forward to just a few weeks ago. I was having coffee and breakfast in my home here in Arkansas, and I sat reading an online article about Reykjavík. Lo and behold, the article informed me that the animal I’d socialized with while I was in Iceland was FAMOUS, and had his own (very popular) social media page, not to mention several features in local and international news stories. I don’t know quite HOW he became famous (His friendly demeanor? His dashing good looks? His knowledge of Icelandic products?), but I compared my own photos to that of the article, and yep. It’s him.

So that’s the story of how I met Baktus The Cat, the famous Icelandic feline.

👉🏼Fun fact: they (his owners?) featured one of my photos on his social media page, and it received over 800 likes within a few hours. He’s just that darn PRETTY. 🐱 ✨

12 Tónar

12 Tónar is an amazing Reykjavík music store (as well as a record label). This was one of my favorite places to visit while I was in Iceland. When I walked in, I was offered a free (and most excellent) espresso to enjoy as I searched through their (also excellent) collection of albums. I didn’t want to be THAT American — the one who only knows Björk & Sigur Rós but digs no further — so I asked the handsome gentleman who works there if he’d recommend Icelandic artists who were relevant (and yes, you guessed it…excellent). He did not disappoint. He selected a few CDs and explained a little about each artist, then he directed me to a cool little listening area. And so I sat on a couch for some time…comfortable and happy, sipping my coffee, and listening to wonderful music on headphones. I left with several albums and a new favorite artist (who goes by the stage name “Lay Low”). If you find yourself in Reykjavík, be sure to pay this music shop a visit…you’ll be missing out if you don’t.

👉🏼Fun fact: first opening in 1998, the 12 Tónar store has often served as a meeting point for musicians such as Björk, Sigur Rós, Múm, and the core of classical composers and performers. 🎶

Reykjavík Roasters

Coffee is life — at least in my world, it sure is — and this company is doing it right. I had either a black coffee or a double espresso every morning. This was mandatory. I could elaborate and waste your time, but all you need to know is this: IT’S DAMN GOOD.

👉🏼Fun fact: at Reykjavík Roasters, they roast their coffee on location (hence the name) and they also buy their beans directly from the farmers of Colombia. This coffee house is for serious coffee drinkers only (that would be me 🙋🏻‍♀️). It offers no decaf and very few types of teas. When it comes to java, they’re the real deal. ☕️🙌🏼💕

Brauð & Co

Yep…brauð means “bread”, and Brauð & Co are a top-notch bakery with several stores in Reykjavík. I preferred THIS colorful location on Frakkastígur (above), as it’s right across the street from the Reykjavík Roasters on Kárastígur. Everything I desire, right there in the same block. And then I could take my wienerbrød and espresso to this delightful open area (below) and enjoy them whilst listening to the sounds of Hallgrímskirkja chimes from just a few blocks away.

**breaking news: even though I can’t type them on my computer keyboard, I CAN type the ø Ø characters using my cell phone…hurray!👏🏼**

Ahhhh…espresso and weinerbrød in the square. Those were PERFECT mornings. 🙏🏻😭 #TakeMeBack #ReallyThough

👉🏼Fun fact: there is no fun fact here — just the fact that I LIKE TO STUFF MY FACE WITH BRAUÐ. 💯 ✅👏🏼

Laugavegur

Laugavegur is sort of “the hip strip”, and it’s one of the oldest shopping streets in Iceland, as well. The name translates to “Wash Road”, as it used to lead to the hot springs where the women of Reykjavík took their clothes for washing.

During the day, you’ll find excellent food and phenomenal stores at every turn. At night, this is the place to meet, mingle, and drink until the wee hours. 💋 🍺

Kaffibrennslan

More coffee. 😊 ☕️

While Reykjavík Roasters is a perfect place to start the day, I enjoyed winding down at KaffiBrennslan. Located in an old, two-story house on Laugavegur, this place has the feel of a cozy cabin once you’re inside. If you’re a people-watcher, it’s hard to beat the view through the large windows on the ground floor, but if you prefer a more intimate feel, head up the stairs and tuck yourself away somewhere on the 2nd level. They offer quite a variety of tasty breakfast and lunch foods to go with your caffeinated beverage. Fancy a bjór (beer) instead? Don’t worry — they’ve got that, too. Comfortable and impressive little place.

SÆTA SVÍNIÐ

Sæta Svínið Gastropub is an ideal place to settle in at an outdoor table and soak up the culture. They also serve several excellent Icelandic beers…and if you’re in Iceland and going to have a beer, why on Earth would you not have an ICELANDIC beer (or two)? 🇮🇸 🍻 A good one to start with is the VÍKING (Classic). 👍🏼👍🏼

PRIKIÐ

As the sign states (above), Prikið is the oldest café in Reykjavík. The breakfast is supposed to be unbelievably good, but I was in the mood for lunch. This was the first Icelandic restaurant I ate at. I was roaming around with jet lag when I stumbled upon it and thought, “Cool. Why not?” Once inside, I enjoyed the laid-back 50’s diner vibes (with a Reykjavík twist😎), and I ordered the above “presidential” meal, called “The Ronald Vegan”. 🤣 Solid vegan burger, although I found the pairing with plain corn chips a strange choice. 🤷🏻‍♀️❓I also thought it was nice to have my Coca-Cola served in a glass bottle. It’s the little things.

Hverfisgata 12

You like pizza? Hit Hverfisgata 12, Restaurant & Bar. The atmosphere is rustic and charming (graffiti included), and I had what was honestly the BEST pizza I’ve ever had in my life. No meat for me, but this one came with dill and other herbs, an amazingly doughy crust…and potatoes. A lot better than it sounds, trust me — it’s thinly sliced potatoes and fairy dust and magic, hell I don’t know, IT’S JUST GOOOOOOOOOOD. 🎇

The Metropolitan

The Metropolitan was the hotel I stayed in, and while it wasn’t a palace, it was historic, clean, efficient, and yes — like just about everything else in Iceland — it still had plenty of personality and charm. Oh, and it was also pretty much FREE…at least for me. The bundle deal I got through Expedia was so low that when I bought airfare and hotel together, the hotel basically cost me nothing. I was also a very smart shopper, per usual, and I waited until the entire bundle dropped to a SUPER LOW discounted price. But anyhow…

The Metropolitan was conveniently located. I’d leave my hotel and within minutes (on foot), I could reach just about any place of interest in downtown Reykjavík. Pretty sweet. Here are a few photos from inside the building and my room:

Simple room, everything I need, great view. GREAT VIEW…because it was right here (above), sitting in this window, that I would get my own spectacular view of…

The Northern Lights

My photos aren’t worth a damn because I didn’t have proper/open-shutter camera equipment ready, but who freaking cares. The important thing was the EXPERIENCE, and it was breathtaking.

I was sitting in my window late one night (I think my second night there) just taking in the rooftops, and I thought I saw something strange happening out of the corner of my eye. I followed the movement in the sky and it began to grow in brightness and “ripple”…The Lights were happening!

I didn’t think I’d see them at all, as the peak time for viewing is during the dark winter months. But I was there at the end of September, and you DO have a chance between late September and very early April — IF weather conditions are ideal. You also have a better shot if you head for a more rural area, and this is what a lot of groups do when you sign up for a “Northern Lights Tour”…they shuttle (or boat) you away from the city lights of Reykjavík, and take you out “hunting” for the aurora borealis.

But I got lucky. I was able to sit in the window with all the hotel lights off, and I soaked in the beauty of this natural phenomenon from the cozy comfort of my own room while I enjoyed some Brennivín.

Brennivín

Brennivín, aka “Black Death”, is considered the national spirit of Iceland. I’m not a big drinker, but of course I sampled the beverage while I was among the natives. This clear, unsweetened schnapps is made from fermented grain or potato mash and flavored with caraway. A little bit is delightful, but don’t overdo it — it will knock you right on your ass. When you take your shot, be sure to yell the Icelandic word for Cheers!…“Skál!”

The Currency — the Króna

This photo makes me look like I’m loaded…until you remember that one U.S. dollar equals 112.03 Icelandic Króna. 🤣 At least that WAS the exchange rate while I was visiting — but always check the current rates before YOU go. ☝🏼 💰

So basically, that loaf of bread (top right corner) that looks like a brick? It cost 370 Króna…the equivalent of $3.30 in U.S. dollars.

Also…that bread? It’s special. It’s called “Rúgbrauð”, and it was baked in the ground. They place the dough in wooden casks and then bury it underground close to one of the geothermal springs (which are EVERYWHERE, by the way). The heat from the springs slow-cooks the bread and causes the sugar to caramelize. It is baked to a dense perfection. 🍞👌🏼

Reykjavík at Night

This city becomes even more charming once the sun goes down, but it isn’t just lovely to look at — it’s also SAFE. Much like Copenhagen, Reykjavík has very little crime, the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, and I felt completely comfortable roaming around by myself…day OR night.

The Weather — What to Wear

Wondering what to pack if you vacation in Iceland? Trying to figure out the climate and what might be in store for you? Let me go ahead and break it down for you, children: IT’S GONNA BE COLD, AND IT’S GOING TO RAIN.

Yes, you will have a bit of sun here and there. Yes, it will feel ALMOST warm (-ish) if you visit in June, July, or August. But when I woke up each morning, the temperature was in the upper 30’s …IN SEPTEMBER…which is the end of SUMMER. And that’s not even taking into account the sometimes ferocious winds.

Those of you who hate the cold are probably thinking, “Why even bother, then? That sounds brutal.” Well, because…1) This country MORE than makes up for its climate in all-around awesomeness, and there is simply no other place like it. 2) The Icelandic people have a saying: Það er ekkert slæmt veður, aðeins slæm föt. This means, “There is no bad weather, only bad clothing.” They have a point. If you only dress properly, you’ll be fine…possibly even comfortable.

So, what to pack? The most important thing to remember is that LAYERS are your friend. If it’s peak summer, you’ll probably be fine with like a tank top, long sleeve shirt, and jeans, worn with a moderate jacket if it’s early, late, or breezy. Maybe a light scarf or hat. Basically, it will feel like a comfortable autumn day in Arkansas. Nothing too insane.

But for the rest of the year? Pretty much September-May? You’re going to want MORE and/or THICKER layers…especially if you’ll be headed out of Reykjavík to see the coast and other wild parts. Because it will likely drizzle or rain on you at some point, you’ll constantly get splashed by waterfall juice, and the wind here doesn’t play. You’ll want to wear something similar to what I’m wearing in the above photo, and here’s what that entails:

1. Thermal underwear. You can see my thermal top in the photo. On bottom you want very warm leggings or thick jeans, covered by…

2. Water resistant pants. Those are the black pants I’m wearing over my leggings here. I bought mine on Amazon. They are made of lightweight material that repels water and dries quickly. You’ll be glad you wore them. 🙏🏻

3. Another warm top layer over your thermal shirt (not shown here). Today I wore a thick flannel shirt. One of those amazing Icelandic wool sweaters is also a good option here.

4. THICK socks, preferably wool or another material that can handle a damp climate. If they aren’t thick, put on an extra pair.

5. Waterproof hiking books (shown here). Water resistant tennis shoes with good tread could also suffice.

6. Gloves. Or at least make sure you have good, warm pockets that you can periodically bury your hands in, which leads me to…

7. A coat with two features — water repellent material on the OUTSIDE, and a very thick/warm insulation on the inside. I found mine (the blue one, pictured) on Amazon.

8. A WARM hat, with as much coverage as possible. Again, not something that will just soak in and hold all moisture. If your coat comes with an awesome hood, like mine did, that’s one less thing. And my hood is like the coat…soft and well-insulated inside, water-repellent on the outside.

A lot of this may seem obvious, but I’m telling you…the little things become the big things. Especially when it comes to the materials your protection is made of. I cannot stress enough that you should look for things that are waterproof, or at the very least make sure they REPEL water (and dry quickly).

Lopapeysa

The Lopapeysa is the traditional Icelandic wool sweater, also called a “Fisherman’s Sweater”. It is easily recognized by a common design feature: a wide decorative circle surrounding the neck opening. These sweaters are beautiful and highly functional (as protection against the cold and rain), and most people don’t want to leave Iceland without one.

As for the wool of Iceland, the Icelandic sheep is unique because the purity of the strain has been protected by centuries of isolation and a total absence of contact with others. The wool it produces has no counterpart anywhere on the planet. Evolving over 1,100 years of exposure to the sub-Arctic climate, Icelandic wool has a distinctive combination of inner and outer fibers. The outer fibers are long, glossy, tough and water resistant, while the inner ones are fine, soft and insulating, providing a high resistance to cold. Icelandic sheep are also known for their variety of natural colors: black, grey, and brown (as well as the usual white).

You can purchase a lopapeysa just about anywhere — at dozens of shops on Laugavegur, even at gas stations and random shops all over Iceland. But the few places I highly recommend are “Red Cross”, “Handknitting Association of Iceland”, or “Kolaportið” (the flea market).

I did a LOT of research to make sure the company I purchased my lopapeysa from did NOT harm or kill their animals, and allowed them to roam the countryside and live a long, beautiful life. Some people will still give me grief, but I’m always learning and adjusting and trying to do the best I can when it comes to the animals.

Saying Goodbye To Iceland — For Now

Okay, so I probably need to finish up my blog coverage of Iceland, even though there is soooooo much more I could talk about — I didn’t even get to the subject of The Blue Lagoon! (in honesty…I recommend that you skip it and dip into one of the pure, isolated hot pools that are hidden all over the countryside, instead).

Over the course of three blogs, I’ve given you HUNDREDS of photos and facts — about the capital city and several remote locations — but goodness, I have to end this sometime — I need to begin planning my NEXT adventure!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 ✈️

I hope some of you enjoyed my photos, memories, and advice. Iceland is a wonderland. It’s definitely on the short list of “Places on This Planet You’ve Just Got To See, Should You Get the Chance”. I’m so grateful that I did.

If you liked my photos from this trip, 13 of them can hang in your home for the remainder of the year if you order my 2019 calendar, “Images of Iceland”.

TO ORDER THE CALENDAR, CLICK BELOW:

https://www.zazzle.com/z/1sn1z?rf=238650741756097412

And a sincere THANK YOU to everyone who has purchased one already. 🙏🏻

It’s bless bless for now, my friends. 👋🏼 🇮🇸 💗 I have a lot of work to do.

Until next time…

🙃 Jenn