Welcome back to Copenhagen.

Let’s start the second of my Danish blogs by taking in a mix of the old and new about town…

Charming, brightly colored buildings abound.

Stunning displays of modern Scandinavian design create an interesting contrast with the abundant historic structures.

Reflections in Christianshavn, a harbor district that was founded in the early 17th century.  This area was largely inspired by Amsterdam.

The Copenhagen Opera House.  During Cliff Diving World Series competitions, swimmers actually jump from the roof into the water 92 feet below.  Yes, really.  Check it out on YouTube.

Heads up:  statues in windows.  I told you — everywhere you go, THEY ARE WATCHING YOU.  ALWAYS.

I had several excellent meals (and shots of Akvavit) here, in historic Nyhavn.  We’ll revisit this area later in the blog.

Their eyes were watching God…or at least just taking in the majesty of Trinitatis Church (1637-1642).

I found this area to be the most unusual in Copenhagen, as it seems so different from the rest of the city.  I started to feel that I’d walked into a mini Tokyo.  Also, I almost got stranded here late one night.  Ha!  I always wander around, fearless, and lose track of time…

1640:  a date you don’t see on many buildings in America.

Strolling and shopping as the sun goes down.  No cars allowed:  Stroget (I need that O with a / through it again) is one of the longest pedestrian-only shopping streets in Europe.

Bookshelves brimming with copies of Den Danske Salme Bog (The Danish Hymnal).  Located inside Church of Our Saviour, which is famous for its helix spire.  More on that later, as well.

Had a beer here.  One of the many wonderful cafés where I sat and watched people for hours.  I’ll meet you here for lunch, okay?

So you’re thinking of visiting Copenhagen?  Let me break down some of the “touristy” stuff for you…

Rundetaarn, or The “Round Tower”

Built between 1637-1642 during the rule of King Christian IV, it also served as an astronomical observatory.

Its design is quite brilliant — instead of climbing stairs, you move upward at an incline on a brick “equestrian staircase”.  Yes, it was designed so you could ride your horse to the top.  Giddyup!

Blurry photo, but…above is the ancient privy (toilet) that you find about mid-way up.  They really thought of everything when they built this place.  Sometimes, during a long climb up a tower, you just GOTTA GO.  Ya know?

Round and round and round you go…

…and once you’ve arrived at the top, it’s time to take at least 100 photos of the beautiful Copenhagen skyline, of course…

They really love their orange roofs, don’t they?  You know what else they love?…7 Eleven stores.  I’m not kidding.  It’s so freaking weird.  I thought 7 Elevens were an American thing, but I’ll be damned.  You can’t throw a rock in Denmark without hitting a 7 Eleven.

See?  7 Eleven.

But that’s another story for another day.  Moving on…

connected to the lower level of the Rundetaarn is Trinitatis Church.

Now THOSE are some pipes.

Lovely, historic church and quite a unique climb to a stunning view of the city.  Yes, be sure to put this location on your list of “things to see” in Copenhagen.

Den Blå Planet, or “The Blue Planet”

The National Aquarium of Denmark, The Blue Planet is also the largest aquarium in Northern Europe.  It was built right by the Oresund Strait, which separates Denmark and Sweden.  On the day I visited, it was overcast…so everything — sky, water, building — seemed metallic.  Shades of silver, everywhere I looked…

It was starting to feel more like “The Gray Planet” until I went inside.  Then finally, thank heavens, some color…

This otter was totally flirting with me.  And I flirted right back…what a cutie.  ❤

When I went to the snack bar and ordered a water, they gave me this.  I was like, “Oh, not milk, but water, please.”  Then I realized I had just received my first water-in-a-milk-carton.  Oh.   Lol, those clever Danes, at it again.  Paper is more eco-friendly than plastic.

Most of my images of The Blue Planet were made in VIDEO form, and I can’t post my videos here, so if you want to see more of this fascinating aquarium…visit!  If you have children, they will love it.  Entertaining AND educational.  I highly recommend it for all ages.

Nyhavn, or “New Harbor”

About 95% of Copenhagen photos you’ve seen were probably taken in this famous area, called Nyhavn.  The colorful old houses, the boats, the canal…yes, it looks beautiful, but nothing compares to experiencing it in person.

Nyhavn was originally a 16th century commercial port where ships from all over the world would dock.  It used to be teeming with sailors, pubs, and…how shall we say it?… “ladies of the night”.  Today, you’ll find charming restaurants and cafes, nice gift shops, and live music.  It’s a great place to chill, have a glass of Carlsberg, and take in the sights.

Many prominent artists have lived in the Nyhavn area over the centuries, including the author of “The Little Mermaid”, Hans Christian Andersen.  He lived in this orange building, No. 18, on the second floor…

Amazing installation by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, right in the middle of Nyhavn.  The windows of the Kunsthal Charlottenborg Museum were filled with over 3,500 lifejackets that were worn by migrants and collected on the Greek island of Lesbos.

Canal Boat Tours

Yes, it’s another totally “touristy” thing, but one that I highly recommend.  You’ll get to see so much of Copenhagen from a totally different — and very scenic — view.

Pro tip:  if you will be spending a couple of days or more in the area and you want to visit several tourist hot spots, invest in a “COPENHAGEN CARD”.  You can buy one at several locations, or even online (I purchased mine before my trip, and upon landing at the airport, I went to the visitor’s desk and picked it up…so easy).  With purchase of the card, you get FREE unlimited transport by train, bus, harbor bus, or metro in the entire Copenhagen region, discounts at many restaurants and attractions, and FREE admission to 79 museums & attractions…including one of the Canal Boat Tours.

The canal tour guides are informative and explain everything in at least THREE languages (we got English, Danish, and German), and you’ll have a wonderful, relaxing time…

Above: there she is, as pictured from the boat — the helix spire I mentioned earlier.  Let’s go check it out…

Vor Frelsers Kirke, or “Church of Our Saviour”

When it’s overcast, the building is quite ominous looking.  But when it’s sunny out, the gold on the spire really POPS…

Beautiful. 🙂

Church of Our Saviour is a Baroque structure that was completed in 1695, though its famous spire wouldn’t be finished until 1752.  In total, you’re looking at 90 meters of church right there — or 295 feet and 3 inches.  That means that to get to the top of this thing, YOU WILL CLIMB A LOT OF STEPS.  400 steps, to be exact, and the last 150 steps are on the OUTSIDE, on an external winding staircase.

It’s totally worth it, but honey, you’re gonna be tired.  So prepare yourself…

Looking down as I’m climbing up.  And so far to go…

That’s what I’m talking about.  I could really use a nap after climbing so many steps.

Ring-a-ding-ding.  This made me think of Taco Bell.  I was getting hungry, too.  JUST…KEEP… CLIMBING…JENN…

Getting closer…

Above:  finally emerging where the external staircase of the spire begins.  On my Instagram, you can see video of me running around and around near the top.  It gets NARROW.  So narrow, in fact, that only one or two people can be at the very top at the same time.  And once you DO reach the top…time to take more photos of the city of Copenhagen, like a good little tourist:

It really is lovely, though…the city, the spire, the experience.  DO IT.

Also, here are a few shots from inside the church itself:

Church of Our Saviour + climb to the top of the spire = two thumbs up.  Don’t miss it.

Next up…

Rosenborg Castle

I’m gonna let this sign give you a little intro/information.  Hit it, sign…

Most of Europe is “up to its ass and elbows” in stately churches and grand castles.

When most Americans think of royalty, they see visions of England, or maybe they picture the glory years of Versailles in France.  But in one way, Denmark has all of them beat:  it’s the country that can boast the oldest monarchy in Europe.  And yes, they have plenty of castles.

Here are just a few photos of ONE of these amazing castles…Rosenborg:

View from the main road in front.  Gated and guarded, of course.

The grounds, in back.  Also, I get bonus “awesome vacation photo” points for capturing the girl in the white shirt at THIS exact moment.  👏

Public entrance.  A little gloomy on this day.  Copenhagen is overcast quite a bit, it seems.

Geez, what a garbage heap.  TRASH.  Lololol.

😆😆 😆

I always enjoy these kind of personal things…historic used/worn items that tell an interesting story.  King Christian IV was wearing this during the battle of Kolberger Heide, July 1, 1644.  The blood stains are the result of injuries sustained when he was hit by several cannonball fragments.  He survived, but lost sight in his right eye.  From this point on, he wished to be portrayed only from his left side.

Creepy wax figures, YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS.  I love this kind of stuff, as well.  All of my closest friends know that I’m OBSESSED with wax figures/wax museums.  If I’m visiting a city and there’s a wax museum, I’m like, “LET’S GO. NOW.”  And one of my favorite old, black-and-white Twilight Zone episodes is the one set inside a wax museum.  So I loved this creepy, dark room with wax replicas of the long-gone royals. 👏👏

 **On a sad note, I did NOT have time to visit the ACTUAL wax museum in Copenhagen.  I might cry a thousand tears** 😢

Intaglios.  My dream jewelry piece.  💕

The King and Queen liked their BLING…

Cameo bling.

Dangerous bling.

Hat bling.

Throne Room bling.

And look at those LIONS! 💥

Speaking of BLING, you should visit…

House of Amber

Pictured above (on the right) is the Copenhagen Amber Museum & Amber Shop, found in the heart of the Nyhavn area (they have a couple of other locations, as well…just search online).

Amber, or “Danish Gold” / “Nordic Gold”, is largely found in Denmark and the surrounding area.  I’m not a girl who goes for “expensive” or “traditional” when it comes to jewelry — I’m more interested in antique or unique, and amber is high on my list.  House of Amber offers many beautiful items at every price point, so there’s something for every amber or jewelry lover…

Looking down on Nyhavn from the museum portion of House of Amber (located on the second floor).

This is the ring I bought for myself (and I got a very different one for my daughter).  The most common color of Nordic amber is yellow, but I selected a red one – “cherry amber” – for my finger.  I liked the color and shape, like a drop of blood.  It was simple, stylish, AND affordable:  this piece cost well UNDER 100 U.S. dollars.  And how beautiful is the packaging?  💖 Just lovely.

The Little Mermaid

There’s just no avoiding it.  You have to go see her.  It’s a rule, I think:  going to Denmark and not seeing The Little Mermaid statue is like going to France and not seeing The Eiffel Tower.  She’s tiny, but she’s a beauty…

Above:  my pinhole/fisheye version.

Below:  did you think The Polaroid Artist was going to go all the way to Denmark and not take a Polaroid?  You be trippin’.  Of course I took my Polaroid camera, and I saved one of the pics for this little lady.  Here she is, shot on expired black and white 600 film, to give her a foggy, ghostly look…

You should have seen all the Japanese tourists when I pulled out my Polaroid camera and packs of film.  They gathered around me, watching closely.  They were mesmerized!  😆 We all had a great time during the shoot.

Amalienborg Palace

Want to catch a glimpse of where the CURRENT royal family lives?  Head to Amalienborg Palace…

Pro tip:  if you’re looking for the Queen (that would be 77 year old chain-smoking Margrethe II), check out the flag pole on top of the building — if the flag is up, she’s at home.  No flag = she’s out and about.

Also, while you’re at this palace, it’s a lot of fun to watch the guards…or I thought so, anyway. 😆 Like my visit to The Blue Planet, most of my Amalienborg experience was caught on video, so I only have a couple of photos to share, but I did post some video of the guards on other social media sites.

Another pro tip:  if you want to see the “Changing of the Guard”, show up at noon.  👌

Papiroen, or “Paper Island”

Papiroen (yes, I need that O with a / through it again…this is getting infuriating…I’M A PERFECTIONIST) used to be an abandoned industrial area.  Now it’s a thriving space with a hip indoor food court that houses many excellent street food vendors.  And when I say excellent, I mean it.  Copenhagen is taking “street food” to a new level.

Inside, checking out the various vendors.

I found my happy place at this VEGAN spot, where I ordered THIS item…

It was served with plantain chips and coconut lemonade.  Ooooooooooh so much goodness! 🎉❤😍

I’ve heard some bad news, though…that the Papiroen food court will be SHUTTING DOWN before the end of this year???  This is absolutely heartbreaking to me — and I’m not even a native Copenhagener.  If what I’ve heard is true, you only have until December 22 to enjoy this place and the amazing variety of food it offers.  So hurry and check it out if you haven’t!

Yoko Ono’s Wishing Tree Garden

Also currently happening on Paper Island:  a lovely art work by Yoko Ono.  On a slip of paper, a so-called “Wish Tag”, anyone can write a wish and hang it on a branch on one of the trees.  The wishes are regularly collected, and when the exhibition ends, they will be sent to Yoko Ono.

The pieces of paper flutter in the wind, creating a magical atmosphere.  As I walked amongst the trees and read some of the poignant wishes, I was moved to tears.

Note:  this exhibit, like the food court, will end in December, 2017.  So, again…if you’re going to visit this area, do it soon.

Grod

Ever since I heard about grod…

(0/0/0/0/0/0/0/0/0/ I’m LOSING MY MIND.  I can type EVERY other version of “O” on this keyboard, watch:  ò ö ô ó œ ō õ — but not O + the / through it…this is simply NOT an option, I have studied and watched every tutorial on the subject.  I WILL BURN EVERYTHING DOWN)

…but anyway…ever since I heard about this food called grod, which is basically a grain-based PORRIDGE, I was wayyyyyyy excited.  You see, I love every warm, comforting kind of breakfast cereal that exists…oatmeal, Malt-O-Meal, Cream of Wheat, etc.  So when I heard about grod, I couldn’t wait.  My very first morning in Denmark, the first thing I did was go looking for this place…

See?  They serve grod, but they are also called…Grod.  WITH A DAMN SLASH THROUGH THE O.

Anyhow…oh yes good eatin’ oh hell, YEAH!

This is what I ordered…

 

Sweet blueberry chia porridge…except they were out of blueberries that day, so they substituted strawberries (fine with me — I love ALL berries).  And of course I made it vegan, since that was an option.  The finished product looked like this:

Such a simple but healthy/satisfying food, and the Danes do it so well.  It’s INSANELY good.  Now that I’m back in the U.S., I often try to create my own version of it at home.  It’s not quite the same, though.

I miss you, Grod.  ☹   ( //////////////// ! )

Smorrebrod

It’s time to address the crazy word I mentioned in my first Danish blog:  Smorrebrod.

(O/ O/ … I can’t even address this issue anymore — I’m about to SHIT A KITTEN).

It’s pronounced sort of like “smuhr-broht”, and you’ll probably say it wrong, but it’s delicious.  This traditional Danish food basically consists of a piece of buttered rye bread with some type of “pålæg” (topping), but no 2nd piece of bread to cap it off…in other words, an “open-face” sandwich.  The topping can consist of cold cuts meats, fish, potatoes or other veggies, cheese or other “spreads”, sauces…or any combination of these things.  The possibilities are endless.  Herring is a popular choice among Danes.  Here’s what I got for dinner one night when I ordered the dish…

Three different versions on three pieces of rye bread.  Damn good stuff.  Like everything else in the country, it’s another example of  “a simple thing, but done extremely well.”  It’s a must-try item for your “Danish experience” list.  And yes, that’s a shot of AKVAVIT in the middle.  Skål! 🎇

Danish Pastries

Here in the U.S., most of us have had a “Danish” for breakfast (or dessert) at some point…or at many points.  Maybe you’ve had hundreds of them.  But if you try a “Danish” pastry actually MADE IN DENMARK, you are going to have your mind blown.  You think American pastries are good?  I’m about to destroy your world.

Okay, so here (above) we have what most Americans take to be a “Danish”…this stale, pathetic thing in a package.  Just look at it.  It looks…sad.  It’s a squashed, miserable excuse for a pastry.  Pastry imposter.  Sure, it will give you a sugar high.  But these are always too soggy and/or too tough, not fresh AT ALL, and TOO sweet.  Life is too short for this bullshit.

Are you eating one of these right now?  Okay, here’s what you need to do:

Step 1:  Hold the imposter pastry in your right hand.  Good.  Now throw it over your left shoulder.  Let it hit the wall, the floor, whatever, just THROW IT OUT OF YOUR LIFE.  Or make a game out of it…maybe use it like a basketball and try to aim for the trash can.  If it’s cold outside, throw it on some ice and use it as a hockey puck.

Step 2:  GET THEE TO A DANISH BAKERY, AND GET THE REAL DEAL…

And once again, you can find VEGAN options of MOST foods in Copenhagen — including “danishes” and other breaded items — if you look hard enough or ask around…

So many beautiful pastries to choose from!  After trying several, my favorite (so far) is called a SPANDAUER. ❤

Okay, class…let’s review:

Danish pastry made in Denmark = delicious goodness from the heavens.

Danish pastry made in America = hockey puck.

Very good, students!  A+ for everyone.  🙌

The Currency

In Denmark, you’ll be dealing with the Krone (DKK/kr).  The bills (above) are like many European paper notes — colorful, pretty, and a bit like “Monopoly money”.

I very briefly visited other countries besides Denmark on this trip (I may share some of  those photos at a later date), and by the end of this vacation I was insane from trying to keep all of the currencies and exchange rates straight in my head…

From the top:  Danish money, Swedish money, good ole American “green”, and to the right (on top of the instant film)…an Australian coin got in there somehow, even though I didn’t visit Australia??? 😆

Above:  I even had some experience with Canadian money…which is GORGEOUS, by the way.  I never thought money could be stunning, but this currency is.

Anyway…back to Danish money.  The conversion is currently 1 U.S. Dollar = 6.41 Krone.

So my tasty breakfast porridge pictured earlier?…it was 75 DKK, so that would equal about 12 U.S. Dollars.  It was a filling, delicious breakfast, but yeah…still a bit steep.  And that’s the first thing you’ll notice as you eat and shop around Denmark — it ain’t cheap.  You’ll receive excellent quality for what you pay, but most things WILL cost you a bit more than you’re used to, so prepare accordingly and shop wisely.

My Last Morning In Denmark

I woke up before sunrise and walked to the nearby beach.  The day lit up gray and I was sad, for many reasons.  I had been embarrassed and publicly “shamed” by a worker in a bakery for ACCIDENTALLY breaking the TINIEST of rules (effing hell, the Danish LOVE their rules).  The “shaming” had been unnecessary and sent me into what Brené Brown calls a “shame spiral”…and boy is that fun (one more pro tip:  anyone who wants to be a better business partner, parent, friend, lover, or HUMAN in general should read Brené’s books…in particular “Daring Greatly”).  I was also feeling rejected by someone I had always thought was a kind and friendly person, but they had completely blown me off/ignored me, not even returning a message or email.  On top of all that, I was heartbroken about having to go back home.  Because high prices, chilly/cloudy weather, cold/indifferent attitudes, and my hurt feelings aside…

…I had still absolutely fallen in love with Denmark.  I didn’t want to leave.

So I had a good cry as I walked on the sand and looked out on the sea.

☹😢

After I had shed a bucket of tears, I found solace in one of my favorite activities:

searching for sea treasures along the shoreline…

 

I found a few lovely gems.  💕

Oh, how I wish I’d had time enough to find more!  Everything was so rushed.

I can’t wait until my next solo international adventure.  Yes, I said SOLO…and no family member or friend needs to be offended by that.  I love to share things with people, but I’ve shared almost EVERY moment of my life with others — siblings, college roommates, boyfriends, a (now ex) husband, my daughter, friends, other family, co-workers, etc. — and now that my daughter is grown and gone (and since there is no significant romantic “other” in my life), this is the time of “Me”…healing myself, learning more about myself, exploring many aspects of the world by myself.  Not only is it what I want right now, but it’s also incredibly healthy and fulfilling…if you haven’t spent a significant amount of time alone and/or traveled alone, YOU need to try it.

There are a few other countries I’m considering for my next trip…but I feel a call to return to Denmark, and soon.  I saw so little of this unique country, and there’s so much more I want to see — especially some of the more remote areas, and quite a few coastal towns (Skagen!)…so I have some thinking to do and a difficult decision to make.

Like all good things, this trip had to come to an end, and so must this blog.

Denmark is a marvelous place, and anyone who can visit, should.

Hey, Americans…

…there are so many positive behaviors & habits we should adopt from the Danes:  Being more eco-friendly and environmentally aware.  Moving our bodies more and being healthier in general.  Being proud of our country (okay, this one is tough right now with Trump in office, but let’s give it a go) — but this is not to be confused with raging EGOTISM and one-upmanship.

We are not in a “contest” with other countries.  Nations should respect each other, and we should all be working together for the betterment of humanity and the planet.

Let’s show a little gratitude.  The Danish people don’t HAVE to open their borders to us and share their fascinating culture, but they do.  The Danes don’t OWE us PERFECTLY SPOKEN ENGLISH…but they are educated enough (and kind enough) to offer this to us.  They are accommodating and helpful to Americans and all tourists — be gracious and appreciative.  THANK THEM.  I thanked them many times during my visit, and I meant it.

So many Danish people guided me, served me, assisted me…sometimes with great patience.  In the end, I made some of them laugh pretty hard.  I even entertained a few of them with my Johnny Cash impression.  😆

And do you remember the man in the airport whom I encountered upon my arrival — the one I mentioned in the first Danish blog?…

I was scrambling to pick up the contents of my purse after I spilled them, and he walked up and said, “This is Denmark.  No one will help you.”

That guy?

After he said that, he laughed.  Then he got down on his knees with me — on the dirty airport floor — and helped me pick up my things.  He even made friendly conversation with me for a few minutes, calming me down from my panic.

And he was a Dane.

Tak, Denmark!

Jeg elsker dig.

xoxo, Jenn